Hiking through the Land of the Giants

Jotunheimen is arguably the most aptly named of Norway’s 47 National Parks. In the local language, it translates to “land of the Giants.” Encompassing an area of 1,151 sq km (115,100 sq mi), the park features the country’s 23 highest peaks, a collection of massive glaciers, and a diverse range of wildlife, including reindeer, moose, wolverines, lynxes, and roe deer.

Throughout the years, I’ve been fortunate to visit Jotunheimen multiple times. My most recent trip took place in late September 2022, during which I completed a three-day, 80 km (49.7 mi) loop hike. The article below includes photos, basic trekking notes, logistical information, gear list, and GPS details from the journey.

View from Besseggen Ridge over Lakes Gjende and Bressvatnet.

At a Glance

Distance:  80 km (49.7 mi)

Duration:  3 days

Difficulty Level:  Moderate

Total Elevation Gain: 3,941 m (12,930 ft)

Start/Finish: Gjendesheim Mountain Hut

Overview map of the Jotunheimen Loop (GaiaGPS).

Planning Information

• Getting There & Away: During the summer months, the starting/finishing point of Gjendesheim Hut can be reached by regular buses from the nearby town of Lom. Throughout this period, multiple daily ferries ply the waters of Lake Gjende, making stops at both Memburu Hut and Gjende Hut. For those arriving by private vehicle, long-term parking is available at Reinsvangen Parking Lot, located 1.5 km (0.9 mi) walk southwest of Gjendesheim Hut.

• Season: Mid-June to late September. The staffed huts in Jotunheimen traditionally close around the middle of September. Those who plan to hike later (or earlier) in the season must be self-sufficient regarding shelter and food. 

Crossing the Skautflye plateau in late September.

Icy lakes and snow-dusted rocks

• GPS: GaiaGPS. In addition to the featured route, the folder also includes the following side trips/alternates that I’ve taken on previous trips to Jotunheimen NP:

1. The out-and-back trail to the summit of Galdhøpiggen (2,469 m/8,100 ft), Scandinavia’s highest peak.
2. The trail along Lake Gjende’s northern shore via Memburu Hut.
3. The high route alternate to the Skautflye Plateau section via Glittertinden peak (2,452 m/8,045 ft).

• Water: Abundant throughout the hike. Should you treat? To be on the safe side, it’s best to purify water taken from around huts, common grazing areas, below treeline, or from lakes and ponds. Fast-flowing streams above treeline, or water taken from near the source is generally considered safe to drink as is.

• Food: You can bring your own supplies, buy at the huts (late June to mid-September), or take a hybrid approach. As I did the hike out of season, I carried all my food from the start.

• Wildlife Tip: Rutting season for reindeer is between the middle of September and the middle of October. If you are hiking during this period, be especially careful not to get too close to herds, as the dominant male in the group will typically be far more aggressive and protective than at other times of the year.

Reindeer herd in Veodalen Valley.

Accommodation

• Wild camping is possible throughout the Jotunheimen Loop. 

• Along the trail, there are multiple full-service mountain huts where accommodation and meals can be arranged. Hiking in a clockwise direction, they are as follows – Gjendesheim, Gjendebu, Leirvassbu, Spiterstulen, Glitterheim, and Memurubu. 

• Some hikers adopt a hybrid approach, camping some nights and staying indoors on others. It’s possible to camp nearby the huts (ask the resident warden about designated areas) and use the facilities for a reduced fee.

• If planning on overnighting in the huts during the peak season of July and August, it’s advisable to book well in advance.

Campsite overlooking Russvatnet (MLD Duomid)

Protected campsite on a windy evening in Jotunheimen (MLD Duomid)

Gear

I hiked the Jotunheimen Loop during an extended stay in the Nordic Region in the late summer and fall of 2022. The journey was partly a research/photography trip in preparation for a book I was writing called Wanderlust Nordics: Exploring Trails in Scandinavia. For a detailed rundown of the clothing and equipment I used, see my gear list for Greenland’s Arctic Circle Trail.

Trail Notes

The Jotunheimen Loop begins with a scenic boat ride across Lake Gjende. Departing from the pier near Gjendesheim Hut, the journey takes about 45 minutes to reach Gjedebu Hut, situated on the far western shore of the lake. If you take the afternoon ferry, you’ll likely either be staying here or nearby. In my case, I took the 7.45 am service, and upon arriving at Gjendebu, headed west and then northwest up Storådalen Valley.

Disembarking the ferry at Gjendebu Pier.

Fall colors in Jotunheimen

Storådalen Valley

From the outset, the trail is well-marked with red-painted T symbols and regularly-spaced cairns. Staying on the true left side of the Storådalen valley’s watercourse, initially, you’ll wind through an enchanting birch forest before emerging above treeline. After 6 km (3.7 m), ascend steeply beside the 60 m (197 ft) high Hellerfossen waterfall before passing a gorgeous series of lakes, the lengthiest of which is the appropriately named, Langvatnet (i.e., “Long Lake”). After five to seven hours and approximately 20 km (12.4 mi), you’ll reach Leirvassbu Hut, a privately run mountain lodge renowned for its traditional Norwegian mountain cuisine, including locally harvested reindeer, elk, lamb, berries, and mushrooms.

Hellerfossen waterfall

Langvatnet

Late-season crowberries

The next stage of the journey (16 km/9.9 mi) to Spiterstulen Hut is the easiest of the Jotunheimen Loop. Setting out from Leirvassbu, pass north of the pyramid-shaped Kyrkja Peak (2,032 m/6,667 ft) – an excellent 4.5 km (2.8 mi) side trip if you have the time – before descending gradually into the U-shaped Visdalen Valley. Meandering down Visdalen’s expansive wildflower-dotted floor, the way is lined with prominent 2,000 m plus peaks, including Store Bukkeholstinden (2,213 m/7,260 ft), Store Hellstugutinden (2,347 m/7,700 ft), and Styggehøe (2,213m/7,260 ft). After four to six hours, you’ll arrive at Spiterstulen. Formerly a summer family hamlet, since 1881, Spiterstulen has become an increasingly popular base for adventurers looking to make the 13 km (8.1 mi) out-and-back ascent of Galdhøpiggen (Note: I climbed Galdhopiggen during a previous visit to Jotunheimen in the 2000s).

Visdalen Valley

Spiterstulen Hut

The trek’s third stage extends for 16 km (9.9 mi) between Spiterstulen and Glitterheim Hut.  Soon after leaving the former, the trail climbs steeply to the northeast for approximately three kilometers (1.9 mi) to reach a signposted junction. The left path goes towards Glittertinden Peak, at 2,452 m (8,045 ft), the second-highest mountain in Norway. Our trail continues right across the rocky plateau of Skautflye. On a clear day, the views in this section are outstanding, with the aforementioned Glittertinden to the northeast and Leirhøe (2,330 m/7,644 ft), Veobreatinden (2,183 m/7,162 ft), and Veobrean glacier to the south. After 10 km (6.2 mi), you’ll reach a narrow, boulder-strewn pass (Velsglupen) set among a group of small, frigid lakes. From here, descend precipitously into the lovely Veodalen Valley, which often plays host to a sizeable herd of reindeer, before curling northwards along the Veo River to reach Glitterheim Hut.

Leaving Visdalen Valley.

Skautflye Plateau

Velsglupen

Veodalen Valley

Veodalen Valley

Reindeer herd in Veodalen Valley.

The penultimate stage of the Loop crosses the Veo on a footbridge and heads south towards a wide, rocky saddle (1,691 m/5,548 ft), located approximately 1.5 hours walk from Glitterheim. Descend gradually from the scenic high point to the sickle-shaped Russvatnet lake, then parallel its shoreline past the Sundodden peninsula (which boasts an inviting sandy beach) and an impressive 35 m (115 ft) high waterfall. From the lake’s southern end, ascend to a junction on a scenic ridge overlooking Lake Gjende. From here, hikers can either descend for another 30 minutes to Memurubu Hut or continue eastwards on the final leg of the journey via the Besseggen Ridge. 

Looking back toward Glitterheim Hut.

Rocky saddle ENE of Vestre Hestlægerhøe.

Footbridge and Russvatnet lake at sunset.

Sunrise over Russvatnet the following morning (MLD Duomid and Katabatic Sawatch)

Looking back toward Russvatnet on the climb up to Besseggen Ridge.

Overlooking Lake Gjende at the junction to the Besseggen Ridge Trail.

The Besseggen Ridge Trail is one of Norway’s most legendary day hikes, and for those completing the Jotunheimen Loop, it’s hard to imagine a more memorable way to finish the journey. Steep and exposed, the highlight comes roughly halfway along its spectacular 14 km (8.7 mi) course in the form of its namesake ridge, which entails a heart-pumping scramble up an exposed and narrow rocky spine. The view from this section is Jotunheimen’s most iconic, with the turquoise-colored Gjende lake and the sapphire blue waters of Bessvatnet making the most stunning of alpine contrasts. Once you’ve reached the top of the ascent, take one final, very-well earned lunch or snack break before heading east for a further six kilometers (3.7 mi) to the loop’s finishing point at Gjendesheim Hut. 

Lake Gjende with Memurdalen valley on the right.

The turquoise-colored Gjende lake contrasting with the sapphire blue waters of Bjønbøltjønne.

Looking west over Lake Gjende from Besseggen Ridge (Six Moon Designs Swift X)

Lake Gjende is about 20 km long, 1.5 km wide, and reaches a maximum depth of around 150 meters.

Crossing the Veslfjellet plateau (known locally as “the roof of Besseggen”) on the northern side of Lake Gjende.

Beginning the final descent to Gjendesheim Hut.

Gjendesheim Hut

Notes & Musings

Magical Reindeer & Knife-edged Ridges

The Besseggen Ridge section of the Jotunheimen Loop is one of Norway’s most famous day hikes. Its status is primarily due to its wondrous vistas; however, a significant part of its fame derives from its place in the Norwegian literary canon. Specifically, Henrik Ibsen’s classic work, “Peer Gynt” (1867), which tells the story of Peer’s journey from the Norwegian mountains to the desert of North Africa and back. In the passage in question, the central character recounts his ride on the back of a reindeer along Gendin-Edge (i.e., Besseggen Ridge) 

“Have you ever chanced to see the Gendin-Edge?
Nigh on four miles long it stretches sharp before you like a scythe.
Down o’er glaciers, landslips, scaurs, down the toppling grey moraines, you can see, both right and left, straight into the tarns that slumber, black and sluggish, more than seven hundred fathoms deep below you.
Right along the Edge we two clove our passage through the air.”

Tackling the Besseggen Ridge (sans flying reindeer).

An Alpine Congregation

Over the years, I’ve made multiple visits to Jotunheimen. Without exception, all my nights in the park have been spent camping rather than in the full-service mountain huts. That said, I’ve enjoyed a few excellent meals in the lodges, during which I ate and chatted with fellow hikers from around the world. One such experience occurred during my most recent trip to Jotunheimen in the early autumn of 2022. Specifically at the surprisingly spacious and very well-equipped emergency hut at Spiterstulen (Note: The emergency hut had multiple gas cookers, charging points, and dining space for 15 to 20 hikers).

On this particular evening, the usual suspects included a group of English guys who’d come to Norway specifically to summit Galdhopiggen, a Dutch Ultralight backpacker who was eager to discuss all things gear-related, a trio from Germany who were on their first-ever camping trip, and an experienced Chilean hiker who I conversed with about a wide range of international trails. 

These sorts of interactions between strangers that become friends happen daily in mountain huts around the world. People of different ages, backgrounds, and nationalities brought together by a mutual bond with the Great Outdoors. In places such as Norway, the Alps, and New Zealand, where alpine huts have a long and storied history, sharing food and conversation with fellow trekkers is, in some ways, as much a part of the hiking experience as the wildlife and incredible natural scenery.

Located at the western end of Lake Gjende, Gjendebu Hut was established in 1871, and is the oldest hut in the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT) system.

Related Posts

Note: The Jotunheimen Loop is one of 26 featured trails in Wanderlust Nordics. My fifth collaboration with Gestalten Publishing, the book features a wide variety of rambles in Iceland, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Greenland, and the Faroe Islands. From family-friendly day trips to challenging multi-week treks, there’s something to suit everyone from newbies to experienced vets.

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